By John B Monteiro

Mangaluru, Sep 22: They say fashion is transient, fickle and cyclical. Cybill Shepherd, American actress and model, born in 1950, said, “I had the serendipity of modelling during a temporary interlude between Twiggy and Kate Moss when it was okay for women to look as if we ate and enjoyed life.”

But, it was not always so. Twiggy set the standard in the 1960s and spawned generations of anorexic models known for their light weight and sticky frame.

Twiggy sets standard for models for half a century

Twiggy was a model in the 1960s who ruled the catwalks, ramps and fashion shoots. Like cinema actors change their names in favour of catchy ones, fashion model also change their names in favour of ramp names. Twiggy’s assumed name reflected her physical structure – she was a beanstalk. Her success attracted many imitators to shed their pounds on the altar of modelling success. Lean and thin became in.

But the pendulum swung to the extreme, prompting a reaction.

Today modelling is changing.

Ban on ultra-thin models: Spain and France

Under the emerging new regime started in Spain, instead of casting thin models for the ramp, they are dubbed outcasts and kept out of the catwalks. It began with Madrid fashion shows some years ago. Fashion shows that took place since then at various other centres like London, Los Angeles, Paris, Milan, Rio, Mumbai and Delhi debated the subject but were not enthusiastic about shutting out the thin from fashion shows. But, Spain has persisted.

The latest on this move this comes from France. The subject of thin girls hit international headlines like the Paris datelined Agence France-Presse report published on September 7 with the title 'French fashion giants pledge to stop using size zero models'. France’s top fashion houses have pledged to stop underage and size zero models from featuring in catwalk shows and advertising campaigns. The move, which came on the eve of New York fashion week, was announced by French luxury groups LVMH and Kering, owners of some of the biggest labels in haute couture including Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Gucci.

The industry has long been accused of promoting unhealthy body images to women and ignoring well-documented health problems experienced by models. This year the French government voted through a law, requiring models to have a medical certificate confirming they were not dangerously underweight.

Kering and LVMH said the rules would apply to all companies in their groups. “The two groups are placing respect for and the dignity of women at the heart of their values. That’s why we’ve always had, in particular, the wellbeing of the models we work with in mind.

“The two groups have agreed to only work with models who hold a valid medical certificate proving their good health and ability to work, which must have been obtained in the six months before a photo session or show,” it said.

Twiggies to Thickies

The latest shift from twiggies to thickies is, again, reported on The Hindu dated September 13, under the title 'Fashion takes an upward curve' where it notes that plus-size models become popular. Here are some excerpts -

For years, images of impossibly slim, gorgeous, blemish-free women have filled fashion magazines, billboards and television screens. Now, 26-year-old British model Iskra Lawrence is waging war on unattainable beauty standards in the fashion world, flexing her might on social media. She is among a growing number of plus-size models finding fame and calling themselves body activists, promoting health and well-being. But change is afoot.

Ashley Graham, who last year became the first 'curve' model on the cover of the annual 'Swimsuit Issue' of Sports Illustrated is on the cusp of becoming a household name.

Now based in New York, Lawrence jumps on a plane multiple times a week, has starred in campaigns for American Eagle and its Aerie lingerie line, and has close to four million followers on Instagram. Six years ago, she says a London booker laughed in her face and told her she’d never get to New York to work. "That hurt,” she remembers. Since then, she was signed by JAG Models, an agency set up in 2013 to represent larger models and walked in New York Fashion Week and had a billboard in Times Square. “Every day on social media, I get these DMs from girls saying I’ve saved their lives from eating disorders or suicidal thoughts. It’s a wonderful, positive movement,” Lawrence says.

This is all about thick and thin. Is there is there a short and long of it? Here is the punch-line coming from Russia -

A Russian model set a new Guinness world record for the longest legs - measuring an unparalleled 132 centimetres in length. Ekaterina Lisina, 29-year-old woman from Russia also broke the Guinness record for being the tallest female professional model with a height of 6 feet 8.77 inches. Her left and right leg measure 132.8 cm and 132.2 centimetres respectively. She has now been working as a model for one year.