By Shobha Rao Smilemaker

I had read and heard horrific news from friends, about people getting stuck without transport when trying to reach the world's largest human gathering at Maha Kumbh at Prayagraj. So inspite of many warnings and discouragement, we went ahead with our once in a lifetime trip. We were ready for any unexpected twists and turns when we set out on 11th Feb. We stocked up on food and water in case our outstation vehicle got stuck in traffic jams or was stopped at the barricades many kms away from Prayagraj.

We were extremely lucky to have a very experienced driver, who suggested we leave Lucknow at 5 a.m. He knew in advance about almost all the 8 barricades at the entrance of Prayagraj as well as the diversion side village roads to reach on the otherside of the barricades. And at 3 of the bigger barricades, even though we turned back and drove around the parking area, we took a chance again and miraculously we were allowed to cross over!

After praying throughout the journey, and convincing many traffic policemen, I was so grateful that even on the Amrit Snaan time, our outstation car actually entered the Prayagraj city just 1 km. away from the ashram! We breathed a sigh of relief when we got down from the open e-rickshaw into the spiritual ambience of the ashram!

It was such a pleasure to see young students reciting Sanskit Mantras amidst the serene ambience of the place. We even sat in rows to have lunch amidst the chanting of Mantras. But the cleanliness of the rooms and toilets was a big challenge, and we spent the first two hours at Prayagraj trying to hunt unsuccessfully for a cleaner place!

Once we started walking outside, I realized what a great effort it was to handle the huge gathering of devotees. The place was barricaded with designated ‘No Vehicle' zones and huge parking lots for outside vehicles. Continuous loudspeaker announcements urged devotees to follow traffic rules and the other arrangements.

We sat triple ride as we begged the rare bikers to take us from point A to B, then walked lots, then again jumped on a bike for pont C to pont D etc. After some confusion, we walked on the specially made pontoon bridge no. 9 to reach the ghat on the other side.

The whole area had been divided into 25 sectors and from the bridge, we saw some of the 150,000 tents, made specifically to provide accommodation. We saw the board 'Sangam Snaan ghat', and assumed that we were taking a dip in the cold waters of the Triveni Sangam. However this was the Ganga Ghat where the sea of humanity jostled for space to take a dip in the surrounding 6 metre periphery area only.

We had to walk much more amidst the colourful crowds, and vendors selling interesting nic nacs. This was a true demonstration of the power of human devotion! Finally after a lot of walking we reached the Triveni Sangam.

In the distance I could see the different colours of Ganga and Yamuna merging from either sides. And I actually felt a vibration below my feet- an usual phenomenan in flowing rivers..I remembered the third river of intelligence and creativity- Maa Saraswathi, as I bowed to her in reverence.

We couldn't believe how smoothly we reached this magic moment that we had all been waiting for all these months! I prayed in reverence for the good of all my ancestors, to the sun God, for all the people who are dealing with health issues, for my family members and for the well being of every single person I knew! This Amrit Snan was supposed to help me attain liberation.

Thanks to strong mobile network, I was able to reunite with my group, inspite of going astray and feeling lost multiple times. There were continuous announcements of people getting seperated from their groups. Sad to say, pleas to clear the bathing ghats after the baths fell on deaf years. I saw the unbelievable sight of crowds of people changing their clothes in the open!

We walked back on the pontoon bridge no. 1 and I stood still for a moment to admire the sunset glow in the sky and watch the lights being turned on across the waters.

I was amazed at the mass feeding arrangements and the open air seating capacity at the next entrance gate. I almost lost my bag, which I had placed at the back of a fire service vehicle and I got it back in half an hour.

Then we walked slowly towards the 13 Akharas of the Sanatan Dharma who used to have a special bathing order on the Amrit Snaan dates. I met my husband and son at the Panch Agni akhada. This was the place that was teaming with different kinds of Babajis. We were blessed by one of them, who invited us to stay in the tent along with 7 other Italians.

We walked around the place, talking to some Babajis, soaking in the amazing devotional energy of hordes of local indians, coming in groups, braving the cold, eating the free food, carrying their luggage, sacrificing so many of their comforts in a quest for salvation in this place. This unique experience humbles you down and leaves you in a reflective state

Next morning at 4 am as I walked back to my ashram, I smiled at being 'one among the estimated 500 million visitors' to have this 'once in 144 years planetary alignment experience' of taking a 'holy dip in the confluence waters of 3 holy rivers', and coming back feeling anew about washing away our sins and being ready for moksha or salvation from now on!!!

Shobha Rao Smilemaker has a vision of living in a world where people use their ability to find and make smiles in any situation. She is a lawyer by qualification, a soft skills trainer by passion, a motivational speaker, a freelance journalist, a bestselling author, an avid traveler and founder of 'Smilemakers Trainings'. She can be contacted at www.shobhasmilemaker.com.