Idli: South India's favourite delicacy fast gaining universal appeal


Mumbai, Oct 22 (PTI): What better than starting the day with a plateful of idlis - the soft and fluffy round steamed savoury cake - served usually with a bowl of piping hot sambar and tangy coconut chutney.

Well, if you still haven't tried this essentially South Indian staple then do it now because chefs and idli connoisseurs feel that this simple snack is fast gaining universal appeal and is here to stay for generations to come.

But not much is known that idli can in a variety of shapes and sizes and is served with a wide range of side dishes apart from never-miss sambar and chutney.

Apart from revealing some interesting preparations of idli, the experts also throw a bit of light into its history.

"Both Tamil Nadu and Karnataka claim to have invented this recipe. There are references to the making and existence of idli from the 8th century," Sujan Mukherjee, the executive chef at Chennai's Taj Coromandel Hotel, told PTI.

"But many of us will be surprised to know there are claims that idli did not originate in South India at all. Some food historians believe idli was derived from some steamed rice preparations from Indonesia. It is believed that this recipe was invented by the cooks of the Hindu kings who ruled some parts of Indonesia," he says.

The second claim contradicts this, as some of food historians claim that idli was introduced to South India by Arab traders, who had been in constant contact with the southern coast.

"There are works that mention about a flat boiled rice preparation that had a bland coconut paste and this preparation was developed upon by the locals to the present- day idli and coconut chutney," Mukherjee says.

The simple idli comes in a lot of variations and adaptations throughout the world.

Some of the classical varieties are - Kanchipuram idli (tempered with black pepper and coconut) and Ramasserry idli (a flat and soft idly from Palakkad in Kerala), the chef says.

"There are modern-day adaptations like mallipoo idli and podi idli. Mallipoo in Tamil refers to jasmine, the idli gets its name as it is as soft as a jasmine. The podi idlis are mini idlis tossed with gunpowder (ground chilly)," he reveals.

There are also household adaptations like sambar idli (idli immersed in sambar) and idli upma (tempered idli cubes with chopped onions and chilies).

All the idlis are prepared by steaming method but in a few snack preparations, they are fried after steaming.

The basic ingredients of idli are raw rice, boiled rice and urad dal, but their ratio changes from household to household and state to state. Some varieties also include sago or flat rice to enhance the softness of idli, Mukherjee says.

The idli appeals to all as it has the good bacteria which are good for the gut, says Devavrat Kamath, the son of the owner of Cafe Madras in Matunga, a hub for South Indian delicacies in Mumbai.

"The idli appeals to all. It is fermented, it has good bacteria which is good for the gut, for digestion, to help normalise your gut. That is why even dieticians recommend idli to someone who is sick. It is the safest to eat since it has good bacteria," he stresses.

"This is the major reason why everyone feels good after having idli," says Kamath.

He says in their households, they prepare different variations of idli, like cucumber and jaggery idli (by mixing these in idli batter) and also a "teekha wala idli", by adding green chilly and coconut paste to the batter.

Customers also request for idlis cooked in jackfruit leaf and some joints have already started making it.

"It's called khotto idli...few people make it at home and give it to restaurants. You have to make a cup of jackfruit leaf, fill it with a different idli batter, not the usual batter, and then steam it," Kamath says.

According to Indira Nair, a housewife from Vaikom in Kerala, the advantage of idli steamed in jackfruit leaves is that it could last for several days. People used to carry it while they set out on pilgrimage trips to the hill shrine of Sabarimala, she said.

Delving further into the varieties of idli, chef Mukherjee says the Ramasserry idli is a unique preparation found in Palakkad and in some parts of Coimbatore.

"This idli is traditionally made in a mud pot with boiling water covered with a muslin cloth. The batter is poured flat over the muslin cloth and cooked over wood fire. This idli has become extinct in many places but there are a few eateries and families in Palakkad who still follow this recipe," he explains.

"It is the flattest idly ever made and is so soft and flavorful," the chef says.

He says the USP of idli is that "you won't feel heavy after having a few of them. It is easily digestible and so it is one of the first solid food given to babies."

"This dish goes equally well with both vegetarian and non-vegetarian accompaniments. Though it is usually had with sambar and chutney, it can also be had with a tangy fish curry or a flavourful mutton kuruma," Mukherjee says.

"This dish can easily be served as a starter too, of course with a few tweaks. If you are a South Indian and you are down with a fever, this is the only dish your mom feeds you for breakfast and dinner," he says.

"In my culinary experience, many guests who have come to Chennai for the first time want to taste idli and dosa first as they have heard so much about them. The fact that some restaurants that specialise in idlis are spread across Europe, America and South East Asia makes it evident that idli has a universal acceptance," he says.

"Once I had a guest who wanted to try idli in oriental style, which we tried out and came out really well. In another instance, a guest had requested to make idli with mutton thanni kozhambu (a thin lamb curry with country vegetables).

"We collected the actual recipe from the source through our local contacts and prepared the same for the guest. It was a new learning for us and also we made the guest happy," he says.

Mukherjee says, "the idli is here to stay and it will remain so even if generations pass." It has been able to adapt to changes in food habits of people over the centuries.

The most important thing about idli is that it doesn't require even a drop of oil for cooking. It has got minimal fat in it, so the presence of carbohydrates is overlooked by various other positive factors, he says.

Some of the other interesting and healthy variations include the rawa idli, ragi idly and barnyard idli.

"The idli soaked in fish curry is a delight for fish lovers. This is a highly versatile dish that can be tuned according to the imagination of the cook. It will take in any flavors that you want to," he says.

  

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Comment on this article

  • NN, Mangalore

    Wed, Oct 25 2017

    I remember my mother used to make "Itu." Itu is fermented sour dough, similar to idli dough, filled in banana leaf and steamed. Itu is cylinder shape, about foot long with 4-5 inches in diameter. She used to hang those itus to the bottom rack of cloth hanger (Dhandi). It used to last for 2 to 3 weeks. Goes nice with sprouted green gram and tender bamboo shoots curry, tampered with roasted garlic. Wow!

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  • Dheeraj, Katapady/Riyadh

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    Follow Foodies_of_tulunadu for more on tulunadu foods, support the page

    DisAgree [1] Agree [1] Reply Report Abuse

  • Flavian, Mangaluru/Kuwait

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    Taj Mahal
    Mohini Vilas
    Manohar vilas
    Wood lands
    List is big.
    Quantity wise - Rampanna's Restaurant, Kankanady

    DisAgree [2] Agree [2] Reply Report Abuse

  • G R PRABHUJI, Mangalore

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    Idli with sambar at Hotel Taj Mahal Mangalore excellent. I love it.

    DisAgree [1] Agree [5] Reply Report Abuse

  • Flavian, Mangaluru/Kuwait

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    South Indian delicacies:-
    Indli samabar
    Vada sambar
    Sijjige Bajil
    Goli Bajje,
    Podi/Pakode (variety)
    Dosa (masala, Rava, Sada, paper )
    Can eat any time of the day.
    Ex- Beef, mutton, chicken
    Try to be a pure vegetrian

    DisAgree [2] Agree [6] Reply Report Abuse

  • Rudolf Rodrigues, Mumbai

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    Idli also goes well with HONEY!

    DisAgree [5] Agree [8] Reply Report Abuse

  • Ivar, Mangalore

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    If you go to Venus Restaurants in Dubai, you will fins one more variety... Dip Idli!!

    DisAgree [3] Agree [8] Reply Report Abuse

  • Aubb, Kuwait

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    Idli and Sanna goes well with Pork, chicken and beef.
    Sanna is more famous in Goa eaten with pork, beef and chicken.
    Nowadays even idlis are stuffed with veg/non veg dishes are popular too.
    Easy to find Idli Sambar in Mallu restaurants in Gulf countries too.

    Jai Hind!!

    DisAgree [4] Agree [21] Reply Report Abuse

  • leslie, udupi

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Wherever it started is irrelevant...
    It will not ever end...
    Simple food which will never trouble your stomach...
    Only the accompaniments if tainted you may go for a toss time and again...
    So many combis...
    Idli chicken..
    Idli saar...
    Idli kurma...
    Idli and name it...
    Fantas in the beautax...

    DisAgree [2] Agree [13] Reply Report Abuse

  • ca girishkk, m'lore/dxb

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Idly is basically invented by Udupi Brahmins...,
    It may be true that lot of Udupi Brahmins mingrated to Chennai in good olden days...,

    Invariably the idly & masala dosa is one of the few incredible snakes of south canara....,

    jh
    jai hind...,

    DisAgree [1] Agree [20] Reply Report Abuse

  • Bhat, Mangalore

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    Snakes!.
    Anyway, please pass authentic information only.
    Only one good difference is today you have not linked Modi/RSS/BJP on this topic.

    DisAgree [1] Agree [3] Reply Report Abuse

  • Jossey Saldanha, Mumbai

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Idli is now Number One Food in the World.
    Thanks to Number One ...

    DisAgree [6] Agree [28] Reply Report Abuse

  • Langoolacharya., Belman/Wash DC.

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Sir Jossey,

    I thought you only eat Phiranghee food and don't like Indian food....I was wrong...my apologies Sir...

    ...JH...

    DisAgree [6] Agree [15] Reply Report Abuse

  • Jossey Saldanha, Mumbai

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    To err is human, to forgive is divine ...

    DisAgree [8] Agree [14] Reply Report Abuse

  • Valerian Dsouza, Udupi/Mumbai

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Excellent!
    Our South India's delicacies have gained national appeal are now gaining universal appeal !!!
    Truly the delicacies are very nourishing, hygienic, easy to digest and all season food.
    May have evolved over several generations with lot of thoughtfulness!
    Udupi & Mangalorean name and restaurant' s good will bound to increase universally, not a small achievement!

    DisAgree [1] Agree [9] Reply Report Abuse

  • L D'Cunha, Kulshekar/Canada

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Idli and sanna are not same. The method of preparation of these items are slightly different. Once I had an argument with my Mangalorean friends in the Gulf about sanna and idli. Some of our friends argued that sanna and idli are same but others said they are not same. Our justification of sanna is mostly sannas are made with toddy or kamir (yeast). Sometimes with urid dal. However, idlies are made only with urid dal for tormenting and available in the udupi style restaurants all over. Sannas are home made and mostly Mangalorean and Goan Catholic families prepare this as delicacy for good occasions.

    DisAgree [6] Agree [8] Reply Report Abuse

  • Rita, Germany

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    @Ld cunha Kulshekar Canada,dear Mr ./mrs dcunha,Here I must correct you,Sanna and idlis are two differnt preparations.Sannas are made previously in saucer but deep er than coffee saucers previousto Idli cups.I remember it sannas were made during the festivals of parish feast or sending pregnent woman to her parents house.Later came idlis vessels.,because sannas saucers were too big,timings and too big were.sanna saucers were out of metal round..In the beginning,only urid dal was used as ferment.It requires longer than when toddy or khamir. mixed. With toddy and Khamir ferments fast,becomes soft.But urid dal is always required.When idli or sanna ,many variety can be made .with or without filling with coconut and Joggery,Keralites ,madrasis,or goan,but idli remains everybodys favourite with sambar,chutney etc.

    DisAgree Agree [2] Reply Report Abuse

  • S.M. Nawaz Kukkikatte, Dubai

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    "IDLI" purely Invented from Udupi, Now its world famous
    Proud moment of Tulunadu

    DisAgree [6] Agree [15] Reply Report Abuse

  • J.F.D SOUZA, Attavar, Mangalore

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Thats why Hema Mailini was nicknamed as Madras Idli at that time only. Idli with chaatambade tastes good.

    DisAgree [5] Agree [6] Reply Report Abuse

  • WALTER M, BELMAN/ABUDHABI

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    Henry hotel belman ki jai ho. Ambade with idli chetny mainly on sunday's

    DisAgree Agree [2] Reply Report Abuse

  • JNB, Bejai_mumbai

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Originally Idly's derived from Goa called as 'Sanna' (soft rice cake permantated with yeast or Urid daal or Fresh Toddy) later it became Idly i Sounth India.

    DisAgree [2] Agree [17] Reply Report Abuse

  • Dr Mohan Prabhu, LL.D, QC, Mangalore (Kankanady)/Ottawa, Canada

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    JNB, I agree with you. In my younger days (i.e. 80 years or so ago), we used to have two or three varieties of Sannas (I came to know they were called Idlis much later in life), and they came in three different flours, e.g. jaggery and sprinkled with raisin as well as plain with coconut milk. As we were originally from Goa, I think Goa was the source of Sannas (if not idlis). Even this day I get sannas sent to me by my sister in Brampton on occasion.

    DisAgree [4] Agree [12] Reply Report Abuse

  • Robert Alva, Niddodi/Mangalore

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    JNB, Bejai_mumbai
    Are you sure? I thought IDLI my favorite is a gift of SHIVALLI BRAHMINS. Now I realized the truth!

    DisAgree Agree [7] Reply Report Abuse

  • HENRY MISQUITH, Bahrain

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Our south Indian Idli is more popular than central Jaitley..

    DisAgree [7] Agree [32] Reply Report Abuse

  • j.anata, Mangaluru / Bengaluru

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Idli ki Jai! Universal favourite!

    DisAgree [5] Agree [18] Reply Report Abuse

  • Comman, Man

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Indra canteen ki JAI..

    DisAgree [7] Agree [24] Reply Report Abuse

  • j.anata, Mangaluru / Bengaluru

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    It's only a DISPENSING point. No cooking, no reheating. Only COLD idlis

    DisAgree [5] Agree [1] Reply Report Abuse

  • Jossey Saldanha, Mumbai

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    I can have Idli's for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner ...

    DisAgree [4] Agree [45] Reply Report Abuse

  • PINTO, Doha/Qatar

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    ....with Pork Chilli and one KF Strong

    DisAgree [1] Agree [13] Reply Report Abuse

  • Jossey Saldanha, Mumbai

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    Beef Chilly & 90 ...

    DisAgree [3] Agree [7] Reply Report Abuse

  • Masterji, Dubai

    Mon, Oct 23 2017

    With gonkudha, Sorpatel and Marvai chilly. Idli is our famous dish from Udupi

    DisAgree Agree [6] Report Abuse

  • Rajesh, Udupi

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    It is pure UDUPI invention, started in car street ... Udupi based people esp Brahmins took it all over south india.. Now it is called south indian dish!!!

    great feeling!!

    DisAgree [5] Agree [27] Reply Report Abuse

  • Shankara Narayana, BENGALURU

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    Are you sure? I thought idli was invented in Tamilnadu!

    DisAgree [14] Agree [12] Reply Report Abuse

  • Rajesh, Udupi

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    In ancient Indian work, Vaddaradhane, a 920 CE Kannada language work mentions "iddalige", prepared only from a black gram (urad dal) batter.

    You should not expect Tamill to give credit to kannada ever.. that is always the case.. it is time our govt make it 'trade mark' soon.

    DisAgree [3] Agree [14] Reply Report Abuse

  • Rajesh, Udupi

    Sun, Oct 22 2017

    And the earliest extant Tamil work to mention idli (as itali) is Maccapuranam, dated to the 17th century..

    So it entered Tamilnadu only 300 years back while it was popular among Chalukya kingdom 1000 year ago

    DisAgree [2] Agree [11] Report Abuse


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Title: Idli: South India's favourite delicacy fast gaining universal appeal



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